It was America’s
hundredth birthday — a loud, sweaty carnival of self-congratulation. Dubuque
was drunk on patriotism and beef fat. Main Street looked like a fever dream of
George Washington with arches everywhere, bunting flapping, men in hats
shouting nonsense about liberty. “Hayden’s Battery preceded the car of 1776,”
somebody wrote, as if that meant anything. Every man was a patriot, every woman
a flag, and every kid sticky with pie and gunpowder.
Centennial parade in Dubuque, Iowa, July 4, 1876
Then, as it always
does, nature got bored. The sky rolled its eyes and said, enough
already. A few polite raindrops fell on the arms of drunks and
dancers. Nothing serious, just a quiet warning from the gods. Nobody listened.
They never do. They mounted up and rode home to Rockdale, two miles west — a
one-saloon village tucked in a gorge, the place where lightning likes to
linger.
The Storm came out of nowhere at just after
11 pm as the town was asleep
The little hamlet “was
swept away as with the besom of destruction.” Houses, stores, barns —
everything fell before “the terrible storm that came rolling in great surges
down the valley.” Lightning everywhere. Horses screaming. “Their voices crying
out for help amidst the roar of the thunder and the crash of the storm.”
Thirty-nine people
died. One building survived. Everything else was pulp.
Charles Thimmesch, the
bartender at Becker’s saloon, was the first to realize the game was up. He saw
the water rising and ran upstairs to warn the family, but by the time he got
back down, the street had turned into a river of doom. He climbed onto a roof,
stripped naked, shoved his cash in his mouth, and dove into the flood —
swimming blind through a nightmare.
Next door, the Rockdale
House ripped loose and shattered like a whiskey glass in a bar fight. Mr. Kapp
thought his family would be safer there. He was wrong. His own house — the one
he abandoned — was the only one left standing. That’s one trick fate plays when
you try to out-think it.
Carey watched his home
drift away with his wife and children still inside. Becker’s saloon went next —
eleven dead. The ones who lived clung to trees all night, howling across the
black water like lost animals. Horn’s store went down. Klassen’s house was the
finale — his wife and five kids were swallowed whole.
“The wave came upon
them,” a survivor said, “lifting the buildings and tossing them like
eggshells.” By morning, “what eighteen hours ago was a quiet, unsuspecting, and
happy little rural village was now only a waste of waters — fragments piled in
gorges from a few feet to twenty feet high.”Aftermath of the Rockdale flood - total destruction
The Kapp boys — eleven,
fourteen, and five — ended up in treetops, shouting back and forth till dawn.
“We hollered to keep our courage up,” one said.
Fifty men from Dubuque
rode in to count the dead. They found “arms and legs poking from the mud, faces
half-buried, clothes tangled in driftwood.” Others lay “almost entirely hid
from view by the mud, with perhaps a hand only exposed, or a foot, or a portion
of the face.” “Altogether,” one paper sighed, “the scene was one to touch a
heart of stone.”
Looters came next. They
always do. One man was caught robbing the dead. Others got away. It was the
American way — profit from the wreckage, blame the weather.
Even Dubuque got
hammered. “Terrific thunder and blinding lightning,” said one paper. “Rushing
torrents gorged the sewers.” Seventeenth Street turned into a canyon. Mr.
Becket lost his fancy stone fence — the one he’d bragged “God Almighty couldn’t
wash out.” Well, God called, and He wanted a word.
Everywhere were strange
stories: a man who woke to find his bed floating, a dairy farmer whose horses
surfed their barn to freedom, a cooper who watched his beer kegs float away to
glory. “Heaven knows where — if heaven knows anything about beer kegs,” a
reporter said.
Mr. and Mrs. Ulrich
woke in the dark to find their baby gone — drowned in the cradle beside them.
The worst kind of silence. That’s how the flood ended, not with fireworks, but
with a mother’s scream swallowed by the water.
Then came the
journalists, slapping headlines and moral lessons across the carnage. Why
didn’t the Signal Service warn us? demanded the New York
Herald. They puffed up, boasting they’d predicted “bad weather from
the west.” Everyone loves a scapegoat, especially when it’s safely in
Washington.
“Terrible Fate of the
Village of Rockdale,” one headline read. “The Town Swept Away by a Flood, and
Every Inhabitant Drowned.” Another called it “The Rockdale Catastrophe.”
“The Centennial Fourth
will not soon be forgotten by the people of northern Iowa,” a paper wrote.
Truth was, nobody could
have predicted anything. The 1876 version of meteorology was a man with a
mustache guessing at clouds. You might as well flip Tarot cards or sacrifice a
goat. Radar didn’t exist, drones didn’t exist, common sense barely existed. They
were on their own.
That’s the joke, you
see — man throws a party for his great Republic, struts around with flags and
fiddles and roast beef, and by midnight he’s naked in a tree, howling at the
storm.
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